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What No One Tells You About Mountaineering Expeditions
Many Mountain Guides are Perpetually Grumpy
Maintain climbing is a “living room dream.” Everyone watches the documentaries, and thinks “I could do that.” But you never imagine how much you will suffer.
Mountain guides are grumpy because they see the same climber incompetence over and over again. For example, a client might unclip from the rope team in a dangerous area without asking permission, resulting in the guide screaming at them. Clients show up unprepared without completing their training. They get exhausted and give up, compromising the rest of the team.
On one expedition, one of my teammates kept forgetting to fill his water bottle in the morning. At lunch time, he would have none and have to ask me for water. He forgot his water bottle three days in a row. Despite having a good temperament, there are certain situations where the guides will lose their temper.
Mountain Climbing Resumes Are an Honor System
To join a mountaineering expedition, you have to apply, then be invited. Similar to applying for a job, you list your previous credentials in a “resume.” To apply for my Denali expedition, I listed “Denali Prep Course Mount Rainier” and “Mountaineering Course Fox Glacier New…
